Chikankari, a cherished craft since the 16th century, has recently become a must-have in every fashion-forward girl's wardrobe, regardless of age, profession, or vibe. The surge in demand for Chikankari kurtis begs the question: can this intricate craft really be scaled up so quickly?
Before we dive into that, let’s explore the fascinating legacy of Chikankari embroidery.
The Timeless Legacy of Chikankari
Chikankari is believed to have been introduced to India by Nur Jahan, the wife of Mughal Emperor Jahangir. Legend has it that she brought Persian artisans to India, which explains the Persian influence seen in Chikankari’s delicate motifs. The term "chikan" itself comes from the Persian word "chakin," meaning drapery or cloth.
Today, Chikankari is a proud part of India’s cultural heritage, supporting thousands of artisans in Lucknow, its place of origin. From western tops to accessories and sarees, this craft's timeless elegance keeps its demand soaring. But with popularity comes imitation, and it’s crucial to know how to identify an authentic Chikankari piece.
Given the skyrocketing demand, what was once a labor-intensive handcraft is now often mass-produced by machines. Not only that, it's frequently done on unsuitable fabrics. Here’s how you can distinguish between machine-made and authentic hand-embroidered Chikankari:
How to Identify Authentic Chikankari Kurtis
- Inspect the Backside: The easiest way to tell if a kurti is hand-embroidered or machine-made is by turning it inside out. Machine-produced pieces will be clean and tidy, while hand-embroidered ones will have visible thread ends, giving them a slightly messy look on the inside.
- Examine the Fabric: Traditional Chikankari is done on light, airy fabrics like mul, muslin, and modal. Machine embroidery, however, often uses heavier, synthetic fabrics like polyester, which are easier for machines to handle. Authentic pieces will typically be on softer, breathable fabrics that feel gentle on the skin.
- Check the Price: It’s no surprise that machine-made Chikankari pieces are cheaper. Authentic hand-embroidered Chikankari takes days to create and uses high-quality fabrics, which justifies a higher price. If a deal seems too good to be true for a "hand-embroidered" piece, it probably is.
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Observe the Finesse of the Stitch: Hand-embroidered Chikankari has a beautiful, often slightly 3D and puffed-up look, whereas machine embroidery is tight, flat, and spaced out. Authentic pieces use thicker cotton thread that has a matte, soft appearance. In contrast, machine-made or cheaper hand-embroidered pieces may use thinner cotton or nylon threads that appear shiny and less soft.
With these quick checks, you can easily tell whether your Chikankari kurti is an authentic, hand-embroidered piece or a mass-produced machine replica.
Invest in Timeless Elegance
I personally recommend having a few authentic Chikankari pieces in your wardrobe. While they are more expensive than their mass-produced counterparts, the richness and timeless appeal of authentic Chikankari are unmatched. It's an investment in a piece of art that will always look elegant and sophisticated.
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By following these tips, you’ll ensure that you invest in authentic Chikankari pieces that not only look stunning but also support the traditional artisans who keep this beautiful craft alive.
Please note that at Desi Hart we only sell hand embroidered authentic chikankari short kurtis. These kurtis are great for office wear, casual wear or light festivities. They’re made from the lightest fabrics such as mul, muslin, modal; we avoid using rayons, polyester, etc like fabrics to provide the softest, most breathable, second skin like experience. Happy shopping!
